Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Treasure Chest Tutorial Part 6: Finishing


After Part 5 of this tutorial, the embellishments were complete.

If you missed the first parts of the tutorial, 
links are provided at the end of this post.

Click on any image for a larger view.

NOTE: My method for this step of making fabric postcards was created by utilizing information from 2 fabric postcard tutorials. Both are worth reading. Patchwork Posse has a lot of tips and gorgeous examples of fabric postcards in this tutorial. And, I love the finishing tips and photos explaining how to zigzag stitch around the postcard shared at Quilted Delights in this tutorial.

As mentioned at the end of the finishing section of my Artist Trading Card Tutorial, there are several ways to finish your postcard. 
This explains how I completed these:

Step 1: Print the postcard back onto a sheet of card stock.
I created this PDF for you to use - it will print 2 postcard backs onto 1 sheet of card stock. It will need to be trimmed down to size, as explained below. The backs of my postcards include my name and the name of my blog. I removed those for the PDF shared here.
Open the PDF, place card stock in your printer, and print.

Step 2: Trim the card stock to 4-inches by 6-inches.
Cut the two card stock postcard backs 4-inches by 6-inches with a paper cutter or by marking the rectangle with a ruler and cutting it out with scissors. 
The "t" in the word "Postcard" is the center of the back. The address lines are about 1/4-inch from the edge.
Leave at least 1/2-inch at the bottom of the postcard for postal stickers.

NOTE: If you are worried you might mess up when you write the message, you may write your note and address it now, before assembling the fabric postcard.

Step 3: Cut a 4-inch by 6-inch rectangle of Pellon Peltex 72F Two Sided Fusible Ultra Firm Stabilizer.


Step 4: Remove the basting stitches from your embellished block.
Using a seam ripper, remove the basting stitches you sewed around the 4-inch by 6-inch rectangle traced on the back of your foundation.

Use care not to cut any of the embroidery stitches. 

If you made a Crazy Quilted Postcard, be careful not to cut any stitches from piecing the block.

Step 5: Iron and cut your embellished block to measure 4.5-inches by 6.5-inches.  
Use care not to iron over the beads. 
You want this piece to be larger than your Peltex.

Step 6: Cut a 4-inch by 6-inch rectangle of muslin (or any cotton fabric.)
Note: This will not be seen at all once the postcard is fully assembled.

Step 7: Sandwich the embellished block, the Peltex, and the 4x6-inch rectangle of fabric.
First, place the embellished block face down on your ironing board.
Second, center the Peltex rectangle over the embellished block. (As seen in the top portion of this photo.)
Third, place the 4x6-inch muslin rectangle over the Peltex. (As seen in the bottom portion of this photo.)

Important: Before ironing in the next step, carefully pick up the "sandwich" and gently push the edges of the front fabric against the Peltex to make sure it is centered the way you want it. If any of your embroidery extends past the Peltex, it will be cut and the embroidery could unravel. So, all stitches and knots should be covered by the Peltex.

Step 8: Fuse layers according to the Peltex directions. 
I used the highest setting with no steam for 5 seconds on the back side, carefully flipped it over and ironed the front for 5 seconds.
NOTE: I did not iron over the beads on the treasure chest.

Step 9: Trim the "sandwiched" postcard.
Place the embellished side face-down on your cutting mat.
Using your rulers and rotary cutter, trim front fabric to 4x6-inches.

Step 10: Trim any loose threads from the edges.

Step 11: Finish the edges of the postcard.
(This step is very close to the tutorial at Quilted Delights found here. That tutorial shows great step-by-step photos.)
Using a zigzag stitch, with my stitch width set at 3.5 and my stitch length set at 0.3, I stitched around the edges of the block. On the corners, I move slowly. Lifting the foot (with the needle in the fabric), I pivot the card slightly, lower the foot, take another stitch and repeat this process a few times. After I round the corner, I take a few stitches in reverse to better cover the edge and then continue forward to the next corner. 
When I reach my starting point, I lift the needle and change the stitch length to 0.2. Then, I lower the foot and zigzag stitch around the postcard one more time to better cover the edges.
When I reach the starting point again, I lift the needle and change the setting to a regular straight stitch. I line the needle up with the edge of the zigzag stitching, lower the foot and go around the card one last time.
When I reach the starting point, I knot the thread and trim the ends.

Step 12: Trim card stock slightly and glue it to the muslin back of your sandwiched postcard.
Trim the card stock slightly so it fits within the stitched edges (rather than being glued onto the raised edges.) After trimming a tiny bit off of the edges, my card stock measured 3 7/8-inch by 5 7/8-inch.
Place the fabric postcard face-down. 
Place the card stock postcard back face down.
Apply glue to the blank side of the card stock. (I used Fabric Fuse Quick Bond Fabric Adhesive. As seen in this photo, I made a thin line of glue in the shape of a rectangle with a "X" in the center. I filled the space in with small, light dots of glue.)
NOTE: Make sure the print on the card stock is facing the direction you want it to.
Adhere the card stock to the back of the fabric postcard.


MAILING YOUR POSTCARD:
In the USA, fabric postcards must be processed by hand at the post office. (They cannot go through the machine they use to cancel the postage stamps.) There is a small additional fee for this. (I believe it is around $0.21 at this time.) 
My Postmaster did tell me I could purchase the correct postage stamps and mail them with my other outgoing mail in my mailbox, and they would still be processed by hand. (I still take mine to the post office.)

Personally, I like to mail my fabric postcards in a clear plastic envelopes to protect the embellishments. As a result, I am not charged for a postcard stamp, but for a regular postage stamp + the handling fee mentioned above. I believe at this time it costs about $0.71 ($0.50 + $0.21 if my memory is correct) to mail one within the United States. To mail outside of the USA, I pay the International postage fee + stamp for the handling fee. 

I hope this tutorial is useful! If you have any questions or notice any errors, please do not hesitate to ask or let me know.

If you make a Treasure Chest Fabric postcard, I do hope you will let me know! I would love to see your work and would happily share it on my blog, if you would like that.

Links to related blog posts:
Treasure Chest Sketch
Treasure Chest Tutorial Part 1: Gathering Supplies
Treasure Chest Tutorial Part 2: Design Transfer
Treasure Chest Tutorial Part 3: Coloring Fabric
Treasure Chest Tutorial Part 4: Piecing & Foundation
Treasure Chest Tutorial Part 5: Embellishment






3 comments:

Queeniepatch said...

Your tutorial is so thorough you ought to publish it as a book and get payed for it!
You are so kind to have done all this work and then give it away as a free tutorial.

Magpie's Mumblings said...

I know you spent hours (and hours!) creating this amazing tutorial Renee - thank you!!!

Susan said...

Wonderful finish to the postcard. Thank you. I'm really so bad at this, because I don't really want to do it, but I got roped into it, so I now have one week left. LOL